Comments (62)
Oh! So it seems I do have an older version of the master profile. I'm updating my settings now :)
Update it and report back
from ender3.
You can't use 0.4mm profiles with a 0.5mm nozzle, there are change that must be done, including on printer tab... If you using stock profiles with that nozzle size you will have extrusion problems
but 0.4mm nozzle can do 0.32mm layers, the problem you have maybe related to other thing (If speed down doesnt help)
from ender3.
Hello, Speeds are based on MVS, for 0.2mm profile the 80mm/s seens ok for normal PETG (80 x 0,2
x 0,45 = 7,2mm^3/s) While PETG is cap at 8mm^3/s on filament tab, so is under the PETG limit.
Now it can depend on temperature and filament you using, can you post your filament brand/name and temperatures you using? Also the motor and gear can influence max MVS.
Instead of mess with speed which affect all other filaments, you can clone PETG filament and set "Max Volumetric Speed" to a lower value, and speed will ajust according. Example: 5mm^3/s MVS will give you a max speed of 56mm/s and slicer will respect that on that specific filament, if you switch to PLA for example it will boost for 7,2mm^3/s without the need of switch speed on profile tab
from ender3.
I tried with ColorMe3D Blacker Black and Haze Purple, and Amazon Basics Purple. All running at 235C for the hotend and 75C for the bed
from ender3.
That's strange, 56mm/s seens low for infills given that profile, i renember i had no problem with Prusa PET when i have stock, now i can't test anymore since no longet stock. I have volcano and i can print petg up to 24mm^3/s, volcano have 3x more capability so we divide by 3, 24/3 = 8mm^3/s which fit inside the limit set for stock.
Do you have lastest master profile? Because i updated machine limits which were in crazy numbers
from ender3.
Oh! So it seems I do have an older version of the master profile. I'm updating my settings now :)
from ender3.
I just got new profile settings added and I did decrease the volumetic speed to 7, though I still have some blobbing.. I'm going to go and switch out my nozzle (I have a 0.5 nozzle installed) and see if that's what is causing the issue
from ender3.
Wait you have 0.5mm nozzle in but using the 0.4 profiles?
from ender3.
Yeah, I had to restort to switching it because I kept having issues printing 0.32 layer heights with my 0.4 nozzle
from ender3.
Iit started failing again once I went back to my 0.4 nozzle after the first layer. The filament settings was all stock (except for my temps) .-. This print was done at 0.32 layer height
from ender3.
from ender3.
Look likes more a height problem than speed. Does your extruder click?
Try put 5 at volumetric speed under filament tab
from ender3.
Use 40x40 square tests to speed up tests
from ender3.
I didn't hear the extruder clicking, and whenever it prints perimeters and walls, it doesn't have the issue shown. Im currently releveling the bed just in case it's off from my last print in PLA
from ender3.
Ok.. so I got a 50x50x1.28 mm rectangle going.. and it seems to be much better at 5mm^3/s
from ender3.
IF better but not perfect try lower, like 4
from ender3.
from ender3.
But all the other layers were fine (but I didn't catch the final or the one before it to thoroughly confirm it)
from ender3.
I can confirm that it did indeed do that in the very top layer
from ender3.
There was some issues in the layer right under it to.. it looks like at one particular spot it didn't stick properly
from ender3.
Sigh The 4mm^3/s top layer had issues, no layer had issues
from ender3.
Well set MVS to 1 (lower than TPU xD) if you still have problem is not related to speed.
Make sure your e-steps are calibrated, and flow is at 100%
from ender3.
Should I turn off the cooling fan entirely? The cooling fan seems to kick on at the very last layer
from ender3.
Should I turn off the cooling fan entirely? The cooling fan seems to kick on at the very last layer
You can try, but i guess not the fan causing the problem
Can you try with PLA instead?
from ender3.
I just started the print at 1VMS and no fan for the PETG. I'll try the PLA one afterward
from ender3.
This time at 1 MVS and the fan off,it came out perfect for the PETG
from ender3.
If MVS value is respected that mean +/- 7mm/s speed. Can you confirm that is that slow?
Now you can reenable fan as it was
from ender3.
It came out really slow.. took an entire hour to finish the print instead of 15 minutes
from ender3.
That's when I had the MVS set to 1
from ender3.
Can you try now with PLA?
Also make sure your spring have tension
from ender3.
Alrighty. im starting the PLA print now
from ender3.
The PLA one came out perfectly too, I'm using all the stock settings in the Generic PLA profile
from ender3.
With stock speeds right?
Then something is wrong with filament, do you have other pet brand? Humidity can ruin a spool
from ender3.
I do have other brands, but they all have had the same issue
from ender3.
Well if problem presists on PET the best bet is test the max MVS your printer steup support. a good way to set that is print with stock profiles. At second layer when problem comes start slowing down the printer speed using the knob (FR) up you see a good line pattern. Then look at FR percentage, lets say it's 75%. Pick stock MVS and multiply by 0.75, eg: 8*0.75 = 6
Thats the way i pick the real max speeds, but again, max everything is not a general rule for everyone, a better extruder can extrude more, depend on each one setup
from ender3.
Ya think I should also use completely stock filament settings from the Generic PET profile?
from ender3.
To get your limit yes, and when found create or modify the profile with your value
from ender3.
I just noticed that the infills are really high with all stock settings
from ender3.
It's not ripping up layers but it still looks a bit rough
from ender3.
I just noticed that the infills are really high with all stock settings
All settings print at same MVS on infills, speed is a illusion, printing at 40mm/s can be slower than a 20mm/s on other setup, what matter is the Volumetric speed (MVS). So all profiles are boosting infill and solid infill to max. capability. Top and bottom infill are always slower to get a better finish.
Find your best infill speed and use that as reference
6 MVS on your preview seens nothing special, stock extruder can do 10 to 12 MVS on a well calibrated extruder. I already give the margin and set to 8 for PET. But if you having problem reduce it
from ender3.
Just finished the stock settings print and it got better when I slowed it down to 70%, but then for some reason the top infill got blobs in it
from ender3.
from ender3.
Just finished the stock settings print and it got better when I slowed it down to 70%, but then for some reason the top infill got blobs in it
Try 60%, then 50% keep testing up to get the perfect look
from ender3.
What mods you have on your printer? Complete setup? As i see is not stock stock
from ender3.
The bed is just a plain glass pane I got from Home Depot coated with sugar water, the hotend is actually still the same, except I have mounted my extruder to be directly ontop of the hotend (hence it's direct drive now) and the fan shroud is the Petsfang Bullseye
from ender3.
Ok then you should calibrate your extruder.
Mark 20cm with a pen on filament, using terminal or LCD extrude 100mm. When it stop check if mark hit at 10cm on the ruller. If no you need calibrate your e-steps.
Also as you have direct drive how much retraction you set on extruder?
from ender3.
I used to have 1.8mm and 70mm/s for the retraction; when doing the tests, I started using 0.8mm and 35mm/s
from ender3.
Also how do I calibrate e steps on a direct drive extruder?
from ender3.
I used to have 1.8mm and 70mm/s for the retraction; when doing the tests, I started using 0.8mm and 35mm/s
Thats seens ok as start point.
Also how do I calibrate e steps on a direct drive extruder?
With the method i said before, marking, extruding and verify extruded lenght
from ender3.
The e steps are fine, I marked 120 and told to extrude 100, and 100mm got extruded
from ender3.
Ok, one more check: with steppers enabled (Holding) try to pull fillament by hand to see if gear rotate, it shall not rotate. If filament gets out mean gear grub is lose.
NOTE: You must do that with filament not glued in hotend, so pre-heat hotend to 215Âēc
from ender3.
I can't get it to budge at all
from ender3.
I can't get it to budge at all
Well i'm out of possibilities, i guess you have to decrease speed for PET go with it.
As last check, go slicer and see if nozzle size is correctly set, as extrusions width on advanced (should be 0.45mm)
from ender3.
Welp! I just I may have discovered what our culprit is! So the weather in my area has been going nuts lately (with it being abnormally hot and because it's Louisiana, the humidity is quite high) and my main air conditioning unit breaking due to the extreme heat, the humidity in the air must have gotten high enough to actually affect the prints. So I went today and let my window air unit run for the majority of the day. I just ran the print and the layers came out much better than before (with a few minor artifacts, but overall much nicer finishes) all at the stock profile settings
from ender3.
Humidity ruin pet spools, if you have that issue better build a spools dehumidifier. Or cook it at 50°c for day
from ender3.
Ok I think my PETG doesn't like the new temp settings, mid way in printing out this case, I notice this MASSIVE clump of filament stuck on the nozzle and it literally jacked the entire print up
from ender3.
The lifting at the very bottom right was from me trying to remove the part off the bed after I canceled the print
from ender3.
What's your nozzle temperature? And what slicer you are using?
240 and Prusa Slicer, I'm using all of the stock filament profile settings that's for the Generic PETG filament
from ender3.
Hey im going to close this! I switched to a TriangleLabs V6 and my printer's being doing really well with the infills and PETG! Thanks for making the profile!
from ender3.
Most likely a extruder problem before.
from ender3.
@sn4k3 The oddest thing is that im actually still using the stock extruder, and the printer prints perfectly now with PETG, haven't experienced the same issue since switching
from ender3.
Some bad tune, better this way
from ender3.
Related Issues (20)
- Slicing with these profiles is very slow! HOT 4
- Insane high acceleration HOT 3
- Filament yanked off bed when travelling on first layer HOT 2
- Compatibility/Implementation with New Ender Profile in 2.2.0 alpha HOT 2
- Invalid and Unknown commands in klipper HOT 6
- Problems encountered with your config HOT 14
- The best profile. HOT 14
- Quick question about which profile to use HOT 36
- Issue with install on mac using Prusaslicer 2.2.0+ HOT 1
- Profiles not loaded by slic3r HOT 15
- [QUESTION] Print quality in Overhangs HOT 5
- getting files into slicer HOT 2
- [QUESTION] Why no 0.4 nozzle profile for Direct Drive? HOT 6
- [QUESTION] There is no stock 0.4 nozzle "print" profile HOT 4
- [QUESTION] No PLA filaments show compatible for stock Ender 3? HOT 1
- [BUG] Settings not working for PrusaSlicer 2.3 HOT 7
- [QUESTION] Direct Drive for 0.4 Nozzle profile HOT 8
- [QUESTION] Profile for fast print of cases/boxes with 1.0 Nozzle Volcano Direct Drive
- [QUESTION] I want to use BLTouch in the ender3V2 in Klipper , but i don't know the pin number. HOT 2
- [QUESTION] Compatibility with PrusaSlicer 2.4.2
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