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330-ne-193rd-st's Introduction

330 NE 193rd St

Front of House

The Story

On April 29th, 2016 we took possession of 330 NE 193rd St. The house was built in 1958 and extended in the late 70's. The house is vintage in many ways, including the original aluminum frame single-pane windows (#8) and an enormous three stall garage made from 3" reclaimed lumber from pier 91. We're in the midst of a Deep Energy Retrofit aiming at transforming the house into a Net Zero Energy Building.

Major Goals

  • 50 year durability. Build systems to require minimal maintenance to gracefully support the structure and occupants for 50 years. This goal affects choices like:
    • steel roofing
    • super-insulating, aiming for where code is likely to be in a few decades
    • fiberglass and/or high quality vinyl framed windows
  • Net Zero. Achieving Net Zero would mean our home produces as much energy as we consume (electric bill = $0). The shortest path to achieving Net Zero is reducing consumption. The challenge is to do so without burdening the occupants. Then add energy production. Steps we've taking on our path to Net Zero are:
  • Sustainability. Sustainability is focused on the long term impacts of material and design choices.
    • Steel roofing costs 20-50% more than composite but lasts 3 times longer. Steel is 100% recycleable, doesn't burn (lower insurance), reflects sunlight (lower cooling), and weights half as much as shingle/composite roofs.
    • Fiberglass windows cost more than high-quality vinyl but last 40% longer. Fiberglass expands and contracts at roughly the same rate as glass, delaying seal failures and increasing longevity. Fiberglass is 60% glass, a recycleable material.
    • Replacing gas appliances (furnace & water heater) with electric versions has reduced our fossil fuel consumption.
    • Our fast car charger enables us to drive the Nissan Leaf more, reducing our fossil fuel consumption.

More details on these and other issues are found in the Issue Tracker.

reference documents

Name Purpose
TODO a running list of "open" projects
ROOFING Research and notes related to replacing the roof (see #18)
INSULATION Research notes regarding insulation types and prices

External Information

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linhn

330-ne-193rd-st's Issues

insulate and pour concrete crawl space floor

info

  • dirt floor covered with black plastic (moisture & radon control)
    • seams not taped
  • there are two dirt levels (~30" variance)
  • partially insulated duct work
  • no insulation on ceiling (effectively "conditioned" space)
  • concrete pad in center supporting chimney (see also #19)
  • unvented
  • mechanical equipment is already located here (necessitating that it remain conditioned)
  • plumbing is located here, mandating that it be kept warm.
  • 23' x 26'

materials

  • 6 yards of pea gravel
    • sky nursery: $47/yard @ 10 yards
    • pacific topsoil: $44/yard @ 10, $51.75 @ 6 (total w/tax: $340)
  • 20 sheets of 2" XPS foam board insulation ($32 ea)
  • 74 feet of perforated drain pipe
  • 7 sheets of 3/4 plywood to build concrete forms ($23/ea)
  • 6-mil polyethylene

TODO

  • clear out the space (#3 gas furnace, racks, benches, concrete blocks)
  • remove furnace ductwork (anticipating subsequent ductless heat pumps)
  • dig out 9" of dirt all around ($400)
    • dig out 4" around chimney pad (July 4th) $200
    • dig out 6" all around (July 8th) $175
  • remove the chimney (#19)
  • remove chimney foundation (July 8th) $175
  • dig drainage channel along footings and future interior walls
  • install drain pipes along footings, connected to existing drain & sump
    • filter fabric, pea gravel, drain pipe, more stone, filter fabric (a drain pipe "burrito")
  • level and grade the dirt (two heights)
    • sloping (1/4" per foot) toward the drain
  • install sub-slab layers
    • install drainage pad and capillary break (3-4" pea gravel) (Jul 13)
      • vented to exterior
    • insulation board on grade (Jul 18)
    • insulation board around perimeter wall
    • air/vapor/moisture barrier (polyethylene) (Jul 27)
  • lay rebar (Jul 29-30)
  • build forms (Aug ~10)
  • pour concrete slab (Aug 16)

thoughts

  • Mold, mildew, and dust mites don't colonize dry areas
  • Warm dry basements:
    • attract fewer pests and insects.
    • are great for storage
  • Insulating the floor above the space is a bad idea.
  • Heating this space will provide a warm floor above it.
  • the walls need at least R-15 (Marine Zone 4)

references

garage attic needs cleaning

info

  • coated in a thick layer of dust
  • has old cabinets stored there
  • has piles of scrap wood (cut ends of various lumber)
  • spare shingles

todo

  • clear out scrap lumber
  • remove cabinets
  • vacuum dust off floor and walls
  • move shingles to garage crawl space
  • paint floor and walls white (interior latex)
  • wire in another light bulb (or two) #65

need a composter

This house doesn't have one. It's got a beautiful sunny lot. A well placed composter could consume all our food scraps and most of our yard waste.

todo

GU24 light fixtures

cons

  • require non-standard ($$$) bulbs
  • are currently loaded with non-dimmable CFLs
  • new fixtures cost less than LED bulb replacements

TODO

  • buy new fixtures
  • replace fixtures
    • upstairs hallway
    • foyer (2x low)
    • dining room
  • install LED bulbs
    • upstairs hallway (2x low)
    • foyer (2x low)
    • dining room (2x low)

two South roofs are aged

description

  • torchdown roof is older and springy
  • roof is nearing its end-of-life

todo

  • get professional assessment of torchdown membrane's useful life remaining
  • get structural assessment of roof (sufficient for solar panel weight?)
  • depends on #19 (remove chimney)

Goals

  • Ceiling insulation: R-60. Eventually.
  • Solar panels (#13). Roof should outlast solar panels (30+ years)
  • To outlive the solar panels, all options (below) share a common above-the-water-control-layer plan: lay 5 inches of poly iso foam (R-30), taped with staggered seams, and covered with standing seam steel roofing.
    • steel roof is stronger, lighter, 100% recyclable, and will last much longer.

new roofing options

  1. Embrace and Extend. Leave the decking and torchdown in place. Overframe the existing roof putting it within the thermal envelope. Add R-30 (fiberglass / rock wool / whatever) batts between rafters. Install new decking, water control layer, poly iso insulation board, and metal roofing.
  2. Marshmallow Wedgie - Tear off decking & torchdown. Spray the ceiling with 1-2" of closed cell foam insulation (air seal). Lay down thicker 5/8" decking (partially). Climb into the cavity and spray foam the underside of the new decking (and framing) with 2" of ccSPF. Fill the cavity with (open cell foam, cellulose, mineral wool, fiberglass, etc..), lay the last of the decking, spray foam the underside of it and add the water control layer, insulation boards and metal roof.
    • the spray foam would add rigidity
  3. Same as #2 but don't tear off. Open a gable end, shimmy in there with a spray foam hose and fill it up.
    • Depends on length of useful life remaining.
    • can be done incrementally (insulate this year, replace decking & roof later)
  4. Pop Top. Tear off existing roofs and demolish ceiling. Add attic trusses and a new steel roof as above. Insulate with 2" of ccSPF under decking. Install wiring, drywall the new ceiling, and finish off new attic rooms as time and budget permits.
    • adds up to 600 sf of living space in attic (est. value: $75,000)
    • aligning the roof slopes improves home appearance (see #2)

Options 1-3 do not disrupt the existing living space.

solar considerations

  • use PVWatts to choose optimal title and orientation
    • South @ 35°
    • West @ 10°
  • optimum tilt angle is 39.4° (latitude x 0.76 + 3.1°)
  • 8:12 pitch = 34°, 9:12 pitch = 37° and 10:12 pitch = 40°
    • choosing an 8:12 vs 10:12 pitch reduces solar collection by 2%

see also

Roofing

door locks need upgrading

issues

  • old and sticky (could lubricate)
  • have keys (annoying to keep track of)
  • strike plates are weak
  • do not integrate with home automation
    • features like "automatically lock when both parents have left the house" are hard to give up
  • some keys are missing
  • there are other keys in existence

Solution

skylight seals in great room are broken

status

  • seals on both skylights are broken
  • replace before they get surrounded by solar panels

TODO

  • measure skylights (2' x 4') rough
  • buy new skylights
  • install them

replace the fridge

status

  • GE Fridge/Freezer
  • Model TFX24RMA
  • 23.6 ft/cu
  • Mfd. 06/91
  • uses 1,555 KWH/yr
  • newer equiv models use 1/3 the energy

General rule of thumb: if the fridge is more than 10 years old, it costs money not to replace it.

  • Dimensions: 67.75 H x 36 W x 29+ D.

todo

  • select a new fridge
  • buy new fridge
  • wire a dedicated circuit #61
  • cut out over-fridge cabinet so family-sized fridges fit
  • install new fridge

candidates

thoughts

  • built-in water cooler and ice maker is nice, but not nice when it breaks. A standalone water cooler / heater combo is far more reliable, easy to repair/replace, and cheaper.

Replace screening with solar screening

issues

  • we keep walking in to the screen because we don't see it
  • sun through it contributes to the overheating of the family room (also #32)
  • existing screening is torn

todo

  • find existing solar screening
  • buy more solar screening
  • install screening in door frame

Great room floor has no insulation

reasons to fix

  1. cold floors are uncomfortable
  2. increased air leakage (uncomfortable drafts)
  3. increased heating costs

proposed solution

depth in. type R value $ / sf
1 ccSPF 7 $1.20
10 fiberglass 30 $1.10
3 XPS 15 $0.00
total 52 $1.30
  1. spray 1" foam directly to underside of floor decking and rim joists (air seal) (Nov 23)
  2. install unfaced R-30 fiberglass batts (Dec 6)
    • (12) 15" x 25' batts: $257.14
    • (2) Dec 7: 15" x 25' batts: $42,66
  3. install 3" poly iso board below floor joists (thermal break)
    • 3" insulation plates: $98.34
    • 4" screws: $108.08

alternative solution

  1. cover the ground with a new plastic membrane
    • sealed to the perimeter walls (mastic + tape)
    • seal the crawl space doors
    • install dehumidifier
  2. insulate the crawl space perimeter walls with polyiso
  3. spray foam insulate the rim joists (Nov 30)

Cost Estimate

$2.90 / sqft. x 483 sq/ft = $1,401

see INSULATION

replace toilets with high-efficiency

For toilets older than 2004, there's a $100 rebate to upgrade them with this rebate form. After the rebate, the Niagara is only $50.

toilet ages

  • Upstairs: Kohler Wellworth K-4436-BB, 1.2gpf, (2014)
  • Downstairs: Kohler, 1.6gpf, ????

good options

  • Niagara 2-piece 0.8 GPF Ultra-High-Efficiency Single Flush Elongated Toilet Featuring Stealth Technology in White at Home Depot ($150) and amazon ($247)
  • Toto Ultramax II at amazon ($418)
  • Toto Drake at amazon ($326)

TODO

  • buy new toilet (May 2, 2016)
  • buy new bidet seat
  • install new toilet & seat
  • submit completed rebate form
    • with receipt
    • with copy of water bill
  • receive and deposit rebate check

Refinish basement as master suite

info

  • 22.5' long x 10.6' wide
  • has downstairs bath already
  • adjacent room can be large walk-in closet & home office

done

  • remove paneling (2019-01)
  • remove ceiling tiles (2019-01)
  • Add wiring in ceiling (2019-02)
  • spray foam ceiling joists (sound deadening)
  • replace 2x4 wall with 2x6 wall
    • frame in pocket door in new MBR
    • header above new laundry area (2019-01)
    • anchor to concrete stem wall
  • add small fixed pane windows on East wall
  • built-in bookshelf (2020-02)
  • built-in linen closet (next to laundry) (2019-12)
  • insulate the floor (2019-03)
    • Remove carpet
    • Install vapor barrier
    • Install xps insulation (486 sf = 19 sheets)
    • add (2) layers of 1/2" plywood, seams offset as new subfloor (2019-03)
    • drywall on walls and ceiling (2019-03)
    • install cork flooring (2020-01)
  • laundry area
    • frame and rough finish (2019-01)
  • bedroom
    • insulate floor with XPS (2019-01)
    • build raised subfloor (2019-01)
    • install cork flooring
    • drywall the walls
    • cedar on the East (accent) wall (2020-03)
    • built-in chest of drawers
    • build and install drawers
  • bathroom
    • floor
      • replace nearly-corroded-away plumbing under slab (2019-10)
      • add 1" XPS foam over bathroom slab (2019-10)
      • install shower pan liner under slab
      • construct rebar lattice (2019-10)
      • pour new tapered-to-central-drain concrete slab (2019-11)
    • walls
      • insulate exterior and basement walls
      • add 2x4 framing
      • cover with moisture resistant (green) drywall (2020-02)
      • redguard walls near water / moisture (2020-08)
      • install dumawall tiles (2021-02)
    • built-in vanity
      • drawers (2021-04)
      • drawer faces
      • concrete countertop (2021-04)
  • closets
    • (2) 6' wide his-and-hers closets with 6 drawers each
    • 6' long bench with 6 drawers
      • upholster the cushion/pad
    • cedar lined (2019-12)
    • build the drawers (2021-04)

electrical system upgrades & capacity planning

present electrical system

  • SFR built in 1952. Addition & garage added in 197_.
  • 200 amp main service panel located in front of house.
    • Upgraded to 200 amp with 1970s addition
    • 12 open breaker slots
  • 100 amp subpanel in the garage, on the wall adjoining the house
    • ~65' from service panel
    • 7 open breakers
    • 2? gage braided aluminum wire in plastic conduit.
  • 125 amp subpanel in the crawl space #48
    • 4 tandem breakers (4x 15a, 4x 20a)
    • 4 open breaker slots
  • Branch circuits are copper. Both feeders are braided aluminum. Yes, they have antioxidant paste.

near term electrical forecast

  • get permit (expires May 10, 2017)
  • request inspection within 3 days of completion or 1 day after energized
  • microwave (12 gage wire, 15A breaker, issue #38)
  • solar panels (40A breaker) #13
    • inspection
  • car charger in garage #51
  • heat pump water heater (20A circuit?)
  • two mini split heat pumps
    • two 220V 15A runs to [main / crawl / garage] panel
    • dependent on outdoor unit siting
  • remove unused hot tub wiring #50
  • fridge circuit
  • dishwasher circuit

anticipated future changes

  • car charger 2 in garage (40A)
  • attic rooms, light circuit (15A)
  • attic rooms, outlets (20A)

anticipated peak garage loads

  • 32A car charger (usually evenings)
  • 30A car charger (random usage)
  • 40A solar panels (generating during daylight)

anticipated peak main panel loads

  • 15 amp heat pump water heater
  • 30 amp - (2) mini-split heat pumps in mid-winter
  • 30 amp - oven
  • 30 amp - clothes dryer
  • 100 amp - garage

misc todo

  • #49 grounding wire not attached to water main
  • loose ground strap near water heater

shopping list

A running "to buy" list

now

  • lap siding for window sills ( feet)

soon

  • #24 seismic upgrades
    • Simpson L70 reinforcing L-angles, 20 @ $1.78 @ H.D.

eventually

  • #87 Imazapyr (herbicide)
  • #52 garage door insulation
    • styrofoam insulation, 1.5" x 4' x 8', 7 @ $16.25 @ HD

completed

  • #26 finish basement as master suite
    • XPS insulation: O.C. 2" x 4' x 8', 19 @ $31
  • #24 seismic upgrades
    • Simpson A35 framing angles, 20 @ $0.90 @ HD
    • Simpson 5/8" x 2.5" x 2.5" bearing plates, 12 @ 2.64 @ HD
    • Simpson AC6 post caps, 4 @ 5.85 @ HD
    • Simpson AC4 post caps, 6 @ 4.29 @ HD
    • Simpson Titen HD 1/2" x 5" HD anchor screws, 2 (40) @ 75.66 @ HD
    • Simpson UFP10 universal foundation plates, 20 @ $15.74 @ HD
  • dehumidifer
  • #23 crawl space floor
    • 566 sf. of thick (6+ mil) plastic for floor vapor barrier
    • XPS foam insulation: Owens Corning 2" x 4' x 8', 19 @ $31.22 @ HD
    • 3/4 or 1" plywood for poured walls, 7 @ $30
  • siding
    • #16 furring strips
    • house wrap
  • windows (plygem vinyl) ($6,789)
  • 1000 x 9" long screws #16 ($405)
  • great stuff pro wall & floor adhesive 26.5 oz, 3 @ $17.48 for #52 and #22 and #16
  • 1200 sf. of ccSPF insulation ($1,429)
  • 2 x AFCI circuit breaker
  • 2 x GFCI circuit breaker
  • 1 x AFCI/GFCI combination circuit breaker
  • 10-2 electrical wire, 50'
  • 1-gang GFCI wall plate, white, 4 @ 0.65 @ HD
  • heat pump water heater #46
  • tamper resistant outlets, 10-pack, white, $11
  • light box outlet blank cover #67
  • 15-amp GFCI outlet, 3-pack, white, $33
  • 20-amp GFCI outlets, 3-pack, white, $39

garage is not insulated

reasons to fix

  1. it overheats in the spring & summer
  2. electric resistance heater is highly inefficient
  3. higher fire risk due to exposed wood

todo

  • insulate walls
  • insulate garage door #52
  • insulate garage ceiling #75
    • 1-2" of ccSPF spray foam #75
    • fill trusses with batts
    • hang drywall
  • insulate floor or crawl space perimeter walls

see also

INSULATION

Incandescent lightbulbs

Replace them all with LED

TODO

  • upstairs bathroom (3x)
  • upstairs bathroom (1x recessed)
  • downstairs bathroom (2x)
  • downstairs bonus room (2x low)
  • downstairs 2nd bonus room (2x low)
  • downstairs bedroom (2x low)
  • downstairs hall (2x low)
  • downstairs basement (4x)
  • downstairs stairwell (2x low)
  • upstairs bedroom 1 (2x low)
  • upstairs bedroom 2 (2x low)
  • upstairs bedroom 3 (2x low)
  • garage indoor flood
  • garage service door
  • garage door opener
  • outside, front (2x)
  • outside, west (2x), flood (4x)
  • outside, west, flood (4x)
  • outside, east
  • outside, basement door
  • crawlspace (2x)

install ductless heat pumps

ductless heat pump todo

References

buy foam board insulation

wall sheathing (foam board) options

thick description layers R val cost vendor
2" XPS 3 30 $9,253 Home Depot
2" poly iso 2 24 $6,437 Home Depot
2" poly iso 2 24 $5,771 IDI
3" poly iso 3 36 $8,556 IDI
3" poly iso 3 54 $7,000 reclaimed

reclaimed insulation todo

  • buy 3" polyiso foam board insulation ($5,349 + $1,650 delivery)
  • unload semi-trailer full of insulation
    • rent yard forklift ($329)
    • hire 3 day laborers ($260)

replace the dishwasher

status

  • it's really old
  • it's really loud
  • it's miserable to load/unload

todo

  • select one
  • buy
  • wire a 20-amp dedicated circuit
  • remove old rotten and moldy particle board flooring
  • replace flooring with 3/4 plywood
  • install new supply line from tee under sink
  • install dishwasher

insulate the garage doors

issue

  • west facing doors radiate heat into the garage, overheating it in the afternoon

options

  • spray foam
    • how to contain overspray and make it look good?
    • additional weight?
  • fiberglass insulation kit $76
    • lightweight
    • easy to install
  • foam board kit $55
    • panels still need to be cut down to size
  • styrofoam panels $33
    • lightweight
    • won't be bulgy like fiberglass
      *panels are cheaper than kit
    • slightly thicker insulation than kit (1.5 vs 1.25")
  • reflective/radiant foil barriers

todo

  • buy insulation & attachment stuff (tape, caulk, etc.)
  • install

garbage disposal is broken

status

  • doesn't work
  • motor hums, no spin

todo

  • buy new one
  • install it
  • wire in new outlet (old one was hard wired)

no microwave

details

  • existing over-the-range height is 30" (too short for an over-the-range micro)
  • existing range hood is an unusually large 42" wide
  • limited counter space
  • over-the-range would be quieter than the existing jet-engine

Questions

  • range hood or countertop?
  • finish: stainless

TODO

  • choose a microwave, Panasonic NN-SN973S
  • buy a microwave (May 12)
  • install it.
    • run a 12-gage dedicated circuit to it (from #48 subpanel)
      • (I can't find any solid evidence for this but the Home Depot appliance guy (Ernie) tells that most microwaves are "good enough" today. Many that fail (especially if it's the magnetron) are from older homes where the microwave doesn't have sufficient current. A typical 1200 watt microwave draws 11 amps, so putting it on it's own 15A circuit where it won't have to share with a toaster oven or other kitchen appliances seems prudent.
    • 15 amp breaker (can be upgraded to 20A if a future microwave requires it)
  • set up an under-counter stand/mount for it

has a brick chimney

A brick chimney is another way to describe a hole in a roof that sucks warm air out of the house.

issue

  • chimneys are holes in a roof. Holes in roofs always leak, eventually.
  • roof protrusions cost real money when re-roofing
  • brick is a poor insulator
  • chimneys are fantastic carcinogen collectors
  • chimneys are anachronisms

used by

  • gas furnace (#3)
  • gas fireplace
  • gas water heater (#46)

todo

  • remove chimney
    • depends on replacement of gas furnace (#3)
    • depends on water heater change (#46)
  • remove fireplace
  • temporarily patch hole in roof

history

In the old days, brick chimneys were a great idea. You could burn wood or coal in them, they'd heat up the house as well as the brick. The high thermal mass of the brick would absorb much of the heat and continue radiating the heat into the home long after the fire went out.

The problem with chimneys is that the vast majority of the heat get sucked up the chimney. That didn't matter when the continent was covered with old growth timber and houses were few and far between. Today it matters. Adding glass doors helps, but a traditional fireplace is still horrifically inefficient.

New high-efficiency natural gas burning fireplace inserts are highly efficient and no longer require a chimney. Newer heat pumps are even more efficient and require no fossil fuels.

walls have no insulation

information

procure materials

  • buy 3" polyiso foam board insulation (#37)
    • wrap foam board in Tyvek to protect it ($160)
  • buy furring strips for nailers
    • (314) 8' long 1x3 or 1x4
    • (20) 3/4" 4x8' plywood
  • buy screws, qty estimate: 1548
  • buy new windows (#8)
  • buy house wrap: (2) 9'x150' rolls, $217 @ Lowes
  • have z-channel fabricated (300')
  • buy insect screening

insulate cavity

  • choose type (see options) (choice: dense-pack cellulose)
  • hire contractor to dense pack the walls
    • get 3 bids
      • Arrow Insulation
      • Classic Pest Control & Insulation
    • select contractor
    • schedule job
  • inspect & verify

walls todo

  • house wall north #93
  • house wall east #94
  • house wall south #95
  • house wall west #96
  • great room wall east #92
  • great room wall west #97
  • garage walls #4

wall cavity options

type R-value Material Installed
dense-packed cellulose 13 $950 $2,500
closed cell spray foam 24 $7,000

References

crawl space #2 seismic upgrades

status

  • sill plate to foundation wall attachment
    • foundation bolts present but insufficient: too few, washers too small, visible rust
  • rim joist is not attached to top of the wall (above cripple walls) with metal connectors
  • posts lack metal caps attaching them to floor beams
  • posts lack post bases attaching them to their foundations

todo for crawl space 2

  • attach cripple walls to rim joist with A35 framing angles (__pcs @ $0.90 = $)
    • every 16 inches
  • attach interior columns to the floor beams with 24 x AC4 metal post caps
  • attach sill to rim joist with L70 L-angle clips (20 pcs @ $2)
  • reinforce cripple walls bracing (1-2 places on each wall)
    • double studs
    • holddowns
    • mudsill blocking
    • plywood with vent holes

references

current code

  • foundation bolts
    • 5/8" or 3/4" bolts every 6 feet
    • 2 or 3" square galvanized plate washers above sill plate
    • min 9" max 12" from ends of plates

upgrade fluorescent fixtures to LED

status

  • old fluorescent bulbs are at end of life (flickering, low lumen output)
  • T12 bulbs are getting harder to find (older ones fall short of the bulb efficiency requirements)
  • LED tubes use 1/2 the electricity

todo

  • buy LED tubes (SGL @ Amazon, TOGGLED @ Home Depot),
  • upgrade fixtures (remove ballasts, rewire)
    • kitchen (2x)
    • garage stall 1
    • garage workbench 1
    • garage workbench 2
    • garage stall 2
    • laundry room
    • utility room (3x)

a faster (level 2) car charger would be nice

background

  • we just signed our second Nissan Leaf 3-year lease
  • 2013 Leaf had 85-mile range, 2016 model has 107 miles
  • bigger battery takes longer to fill up

options

todo

  • select a level 2 car charger
  • buy the car charger (June 2)
    • file sales tax exemption form with amazon
    • receive sales tax credit (June 3)
  • wire a 2-gage circuit to car charging area
    • 115 amp rating will support any future charging needs w/o needing new wire
    • conduit is supported every 10'
    • conduit is supported within _' of terminations
  • install a NEMA 6-50 connector
  • hook up car charger (June 6)

dispose of old fridge & freezer in garage

issues

todo

  • schedule pickup (May 17th)
  • plugin in a day before to prove they are working
  • Kenmore Upright Freezer, 253.29401990, serial WB01721702, 13.8 cf., Mfd 4-00, 811 KWH/yr
  • White Westinghouse Fridge/Freezer, Model MRT15CSCW4, 15.4 cf., Mfd 02-96, 702 KWH/yr
  • collect & deposit rebate (Jun 11)

gas furnace is 80% efficient

Which means it's wasting 20% of the gas paid for.

options

  1. replace with high efficiency (95%) gas furnace
    • pros
      • ductwork already in place
      • highly efficient (wastes 15% less)
      • natural gas is (currently) a cheap fuel
      • 95% efficient Trane at Second Use is only $600
      • PSE rebates
    • cons
      • fossil fuel
      • natural gas price is more volatile than electricity
      • requires connection fees, even in summer months when no gas is used
      • leaks are far too common, resulting in poisonings and explosions
        • much higher risk in seismically active areas
  2. replace with mini-split heat pumps (#53)
    • pros
      • new models are super-efficient (HSPF 10+) and heat well, even in winter
      • we don't use A/C much in Seattle, but 20+ SEER is a nice perk.
      • Seattle has cheap green electricity
      • uses no fossil fuels (Seattle's grid power is mostly hydro plus some wind, solar, and other)
      • pairs well with solar panels (#13)
      • zoned heating
    • cons
      • requires 220v wiring
      • higher install cost than a replacement furnace

todo

  • remove ducts from crawl space
  • remove furnace from crawl space
  • install heat pumps (#53)

building ground strap not attached to water main

background

  • ground strap is attached to legacy steel water main
    • which has long since been decommissioned

issues

  • it's still a sufficient building ground
  • it's no longer tied to water main
  • ground wire must be contiguous from main, or permanently spliced/extended

todo

  • extend ground wire to copper main
    • spliced with permanent copper lug

Install electrical subpanel in crawl space

background

  • main panel is difficult to access
    • resulting in lots of spaghetti wiring
  • installing a subpanel
    • makes future wiring projects much easier
    • allows mutilated corner studs to be repaired

specs

  • 125 amp panel
  • 8 breakers (supports 16 tandem breakers)

todo

  • buy Cutler Hammer subpanel (same breakers as existing)
  • install subpanel
    • 2-gage feed from main panel
    • mostly (90%) enclosed in conduit
    • fully enclosed in conduit
  • install 100A breaker in main panel
  • Inspection
    • microwave circuit #38
    • fridge circuit #61
    • dishwasher circuit #62
    • water heater circuit #46
    • car charger #51
    • crawl space light circuit #59
    • crawl space outlets #60
    • office outlet

East roof water is piped along foundation

Direct it 4' away from the structure

Build a Gabion wall there to provide a flat walking path along the house, raise up the lower edge of the yard to form a rain garden, and give the water a path away from the footings.

Vendors

  • Co-Op Supply Everett, 5' x 16' galvanized horse fencing
  • NKS Stones / NKS Oasis, 36" gabion spiral ties

How To

Materials

  • For each gabion cage: (3) pieces of fencing and (9) spirals.
  • For every two cages that are joined: (3-4) spirals.

Assembly

  1. Take one piece of fencing and bend it 90° lengthwise at the 3' mark, creating an ell shape.
    • I used a 2x4. By standing on the 2x4, I was able to bend the fencing by pulling up on it
  2. Take a second piece of fencing and bend it 30° lengthwise at the 3' mark.
    • only 30° because we want the top to stay mostly open while we fill the cage with rocks
  3. Mate the two ell shapes to form a 2'x3' rectangle.
  4. Using (3) spirals, join the two pieces along the 16' mating edge.
  5. Stand the cage up, admire your rock tunnel, and ponder what will keep your rocks from spilling out the ends.
  6. create cage ends and dividers
    a. Cut another piece of fencing into (4) 2' sections. Make the cuts halfway between the vertical bars
    b. Insert one end of one 2' section through another piece of fencing and bend all the arms 90°
    c. Flip the section over, insert the unbent arms on the other side and bend them 90° in the same direction as the other side
    d. repeat 3x
  7. Take a 2' section with 90° bent arms and set it into one end of the gabion cage
  8. bend the tabs another 90° to lock them around the cage end frame
  9. repeat steps 7 & 8 at the other end of the cage
  10. take the last two 2' sections and install them as dividers within the cage
  11. Fill with rocks
  12. Bend the top of the cage down and fasten with (3) spirals along the long axis, (1) at each end, and maybe another along the top of the dividers if they don't want to lay flat without some persuasion.

insulate and moisture manage foundation walls

Code

  • 2012 International Residential Code: R-15

which side of foundation walls?

  • exterior
  • interior

interior

issues with Interior Foundation Wall Insulation

  1. The foundation wall gets cold. Foundation walls must have perfect moisture management (footings, exterior walls, rim joists) to prevent moisture in the concrete walls from impacting other systems.
  2. Most interior foam board (except foil faced polyiso) insulation requires a fire barrier inside the insulation
  3. It's really hard to:
    • dry wet basement walls that are insulated
    • install capillary breaks in existing systems
    • manage moisture in foundation walls
      • is there a capillary break between rim joists?
        • to prevent moisture in exterior walls from migrating to rim joists
      • is there a capillary break between footings?
        • to prevent ground moisture from wicking up the foundation walls?
      • is there proper drainage for foundation / footings?
        • so water can drain away
  4. It's impractical to retrofit capillary breaks in existing foundation walls

Interior insulation options

  • Three inches of unfaced XPS (R-15)
  • Four inches of unfaced expanded polystyrene (R-15)
  • Three inches of ccSPF (R-18)
  • Three inches of polyiso (R-18)
    • this option satisfies the fire barrier requirement

interior process

  • dig a drainage channel along footings
    • install drain pipe and gravel in channel
  • adhere 3" polyiso foam board to walls
    • caulk and seal the bottom edges
    • seal the insulation at the top with spray foam
      • all the way up the rim joists (to at least 2" depth)
  • optionally cover polyiso with drywall (fire barrier)

exterior process

  • dig trench around the house, down to the footings
  • waterproof the building (keep water away)
    • assure footings have proper drainage
      • to french drain, sump or daylight
    • add impermeable layer sloped away (3" in 4') from the building
      • option: clay layer on top
      • option: buried plastic, coarse gravel (for drainage), then fabric, soil
      • mulch 2+ feet from building for insect control
  • dampproof the exterior foundation walls (capillary break)
  • Insulate exterior surface of foundation walls to at least R-15
    • 4" mineral wool board (Roxul Comfortboard, etc..)
      • a green building material
      • repels water and insects
    • 2.5" high-density ccSPF foam
    • Foamglas, Thermacork, etc..
  • cover insulation with protection layer from siding to 8" below soil
  • insulate rim joists
    • 1 inch of ccSPF (enough to air seal, minimal to provide drying potential to interior)
    • only after exterior surface of rim joists are insulated

References

appliances are old and inefficient

consider replacing each with EnergyStar or CEE tier 2 or 3 rated equivalents.

appliance fuel source age efficiency issue
range oven electric 2000
furnace gas 2006 80% #3
water heater gas 2000 R 6.7 #46
washer electric 50% #39
dryer electric 2000
fridge electric 1991 1,555 KWH #40
dishwasher electric 1996 #44
microwave electric n/a #38
toilet - up n/a 2014 1.2 gpf #29
toilet - down n/a 2004 1.6 gpf #29

info

  • dryer: Kenmore 110.60922990, serial: MK4978411
    • has moisture sensor. No significant advantage to upgrading.
  • range: Whirlpool GR395LXGQ 2, serial: RK4011682
    • newer electric ranges have flat burners
    • to get high efficiency, go with induction. Induction ranges are really hard to find in USA.
  • dishwasher: Kenmore 665.15822, serial: FK4817362
    • newer ones use less water and electricity

maybe?

  • chest freezer: Frigidaire FFC13C3AW0, 12.9 cf., mfd 2001, 362 KWH

not so old

water heater uses chimney

info

  • blocks the removal of the chimney (#19)
  • existing water heater is 16 years old.
  • water heater had 6 year warranty
  • it's well past a water heaters typical (8-12 years) service life
  • pilot light always burning gas
  • eligible for $300 federal tax credit (GE certification statement, IRS Residential Energy Credits)
  • no drain pan

options

  • add power venting to this gas heater
  • replace with
    • power vented gas heater
    • heat pump water heater ($817.65)
      • $500 rebate from Seattle City Light (only if replacing electric water heater)
      • bigger tanks, to compensate for longer recovery time
      • 3.25 Energy Factor for GE GeoSpring 50 gallon
    • tankless water heater
      • gas is fast, but would be the only gas appliance.
      • electric uses lots (3 x 40A circuits) of juice

todo

  • buy a heat pump water heater, 2016-06-10, $817.65
  • clear out area for new heater
  • install new water heater
    • run new branch circuit #66
    • tie two 30A 110 breakers together
    • in a drain pan
    • connect drain pan to sump drain
  • run new 3/4" copper pipe
    • - (3) 3/4 elbows
    • - (1) 3/4 tee
    • - (1) 3/4 copper pipe
    • - (2) 3/4 copper couplers
    • - (2) 3/4" pipe caps

references

Excerpt from King County

Expansion tanks

If your water is on a closed system (the water can flow into your building but not out), an expansion tank or other approved thermal expansion device must be installed on your water system. The expansion tank is to hold water that can't be held in the water heater after it expands when it gets hot. If there were no expansion tank, the hot water would be released through the pressure relief valve.

windows are single pane aluminum framed

window info

issues

  • lots of heat leakage (u-factor 1.3, R-1)
  • Condensation on the interior glass wets and deteriorates the wood sills.
  • aluminum is a great conductor of heat / horrible insulator (reduces to R-0.5)
  • glazing needs replacement

todo

  • measure every window needing replacement
    • consider how windows are used, adjust type
    • adjust measurements for new sizes
  • get quotes for new windows #74
  • order windows
  • wait for delivery (July 13)
  • install windows (#76)
  • apply for rebate (#101)

References

mailbox needs replacing

Problem

  • Existing mailbox is ancient, rusty, and insecure.
  • Mail theft is still an issue in the metro area
  • Having mail (especially checks) stolen is not good customer service

Solution

Replace with a MailBoss mailbox.

TODO

  • order new mailbox
  • mount on existing spreader bar

kitchen remodel

current issues

  • no cookbook storage
  • fridge blocks doorway
  • scattered work centers (food prep, cooking, baking)
  • kitchen located between indoor & outdoor eating areas
  • kitchen located in primary foot path

ideas

  • relocate kitchen onto West wall
    • puts both eating areas on the same side (normalized traffic to/from eating areas)
    • puts fridge/pantry next to side door (easier grocery hauling)
    • moves kitchen away from primary traffic areas
    • depends on #19 remove chimney

todo

  • interview kitchen designers / installers
  • mull ideas, cogitate, discuss
    • coordinate with designer, both household cooks, and design an awesome kitchen
  • contract with a kitchen designer
  • install it

Roof needs solar panels

reasons to do soon

  1. WA state sustainable production incentives expire in 2020
  2. 30% federal tax credit starts shrinking in 2019
  3. WA state sales tax exemption

todo

  • get quotes from installers
    • Sunergy: 9.90 kW for $30,424
    • NW Wind & Solar: 9.86 kW for $33,341
    • Puget Sound Solar: 8.1 kW for $32,762
  • choose installer
    • schedule installation
  • panel installation
    • permitting, ~7 days
    • Fill out SCL interconnection agreement
    • interconnection approval, ~7 days
    • install panels on roof (starting May 19th).
    • electrical inspection (May 24)
    • install new production and digital net meters, ~7-10 days (expected May 31, actual June 8)
      • get "made in WA" confirmation, 30 days (June 6)
  • receive 30% Federal tax credit (#70)

options

  • put panels on East/West facing garage roof
    • roof is nearly new
  • put panels on South facing house roof
    • depends on #18 (replace roofing)

See also

replace washing machine

current washer

  • Brand: Kenmore
  • Model 110.20022012
  • Ser. C14333241
  • manufactured in Clyde, OH, ~2000

todo

  • select newer high efficiency model
  • purchase washer (May 5)
  • hook it up (May 8)
  • submit rebate form (May 10)
  • deposit rebate (June 16)

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