filmarini / nappy-fingers

This app supports you in your hangboard training.

Nappy Fingers

Finger strength is important for hard climbing. Hangboards (fingerboards) are the most effective way to improve finger strength.

This app supports you in your hangboard training on the Beastmaker 1000 and the Beastmaker 2000. Other hangboards will be supported eventually.

Nappy Fingers provides

• Spoken instructions in English language
• Visual instructions with photos
• Integrated training programs
• Editor for creating custom training programs
• Support for several hangboards
• No network connection required
• It is entirely free!

Hangboard repeaters

Training on hangboards means executing sets of short hangs with short rests in between. A set may consist of six hangs of seven seconds each, for example, seperated by rests of three seconds each. All six repeats are done on the same holds with the same grip type (finger position). Such a set is called an exercise is Nappy Fingers. After the exercise, you take a rest for some minutes. Then you move on to the next exercise on other holds. A complete workout of several exercises is called a program in Nappy Fingers.

The repeater method trains both your strength endurance and your maximum strength.

Maximum hangs

An alternative method is to hang for longer times of ten or twelve seconds. Holds and grip type are chosen such that each hang requires maximum effort. The rests between the hangs are much longer, up to three or five minutes, to allow for a full recovery. A set again comprises three or five repeats on the same hold.

The maximum hangs method mostly improves maximum strength.

Smart beastmaking

Nappy Fingers is useful for both methods and comes with a number of built-in programs for both methods. Nappy Fingers guides you through these programs with detailed instructions, using spoken language, pictures and descriptive texts.

An integrated editor allows to modify these programs and to create new custom programs according to your own preferences. There is an option for exporting and importing custom programs as JSON files. These files can be edited with a normal text editor and can easily be shared with other people.

Strong fingers for changing the baby

I got myself a hangboard and wrote this app when we had our first baby. There is less time for actual climbing now, but still enough room for an occasional hangboard session between changing the diapers.

Feedback and suggestions are welcome. If you send me your custom programs, I will consider them for inclusion as built-ins.