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ender_sw's Introduction

Ender 3 Pro/V2 to Switchwire Conversion Release.2

This is a full conversion of the popular Ender 3 Pro/V2 to a Voron Switchwire. The motivation came from Triano and his awesome original conversion that served as a starting point, however everything was re-designed from scratch (in order to follow the Voron guidelines and aesthetics more accurately). Another factor that led to this re-design, was the need to be able to enclose this printer in a, visually, pleasant and, structurally, functional way. The ingenious design of 5x MGN12H Linear Rails - 300mm (dual Y axis rail) from Triano was preserved and the printing volume is ~220x220x220.

Release 2 Update Changelog:

  • CAD files cleaned up.
  • Small corrections to parts.
  • Added printable deck files (still it's recommended to laser cut them though)
  • Added different .dxfs for rear black panels (in case anyone wants to cut the panels from a material that is not same on both surfaces)
  • Added the option to use the stock Ender 3 LCD screen.

Rev.2 Update Changelog:

  • Every change happened in order to improve the build process and the design overall.
  • All screw sizes and types are properly documented in the CAD (soon there will be a conversion BOM also). Also no more “exotic” sizes, everything is according to what VORON is using officially.
  • Current conversion’s enclosure is 100% compatible with the new update (except of the deck panels ofc).
  • XZ Blocks improved fit for the X v-slots and are also modified to use 30mm BHCS (like the original SW).
  • Y Axis, new front idler (in order to achieve a mounting point for the front grill), improved clearance for the rear Y motor mount. All use BHCS screws now.
  • Split bed carriage with size and clearance corrections. Made uppon the design recommendation of Steve. Also Y belt clips have a bit more clearance on the upper side, in order to leave some space for spare belt 🙂
  • XZ motors have thinner XZ tensioners to avoid the lower “split” (kudos to Steve for that ALSO).
  • We are now using the original SW Spool Holder (for easier installation, due to clearance)
  • Front Grills have now the LCD mount of the original SW. They also mount to the extended sides just by M3 screws.
  • Rear Grills mount by M5x16 BHCS screws now. Also the inlet has moved to the side (in order to have a straight and easier connection with the PSU), this was also a recommendation by Steve and he was more than kind to share his original .F3D file. Both stock Ender and C14 inlets are compatible.
  • Removed material from the grills, in order to save some plastic and cut down print time.
  • PSU is now mounted parallel to the side extrusions and RS25 can be mounted in the front of the printer.
  • Redesigned mounts for the Board and RPi (no more shelf and moooahr clearance!)

And last but not least… -The side extensions. Front and rear side extensions are designed to extend the frame for aesthetical and a few practical reasons (clearance and NO MORE NOTCH). They are sturdy enough but keep in mind that you will not move around the printer by lifting it from there.

Home Home

Info

Various parts can* be recycled from the Ender 3 Pro/V2, most important ones are:

  • The frame (though a 310mm extrusion is needed for the X. You can chop the original one to length).
  • The MeanWell PSU.
  • The heatbed assemble.
  • The original board.
  • XYZ motors (as long as you can pull off the pulleys. An aftermarket 20mm motor is needed for the printhead extruder though).
  • All the cables that don't go through the cable-chains (for there, silicone or PTFE cable is adviced).
  • 4010 fan for the tool cooling.

*cheaping out in parts can lead into several problems, such as poor printing quality or, even worse, safety hazard. Keep that in mind and use parts from the official Switchwire BOM.

Files

  • Most of the printed part files needed for this conversion, are included in this git (you will only need to get the Stealthburner print files from the official Switchwire git ).
  • CAD files (.f3d and .STEP) are provided, in order to help the building process, but they also serve as a BOM (in case you need to find proper screw lengths etc).
  • DXF files in order to cut your enclosure panels.
  • BOM (Sometime...)

Credits

  • Ofc to Triano, as his design served as base.
  • To Steve (THE Steve!) for pointing out weak parts, that had to be redesigned, his tips and files and being a helpful person in general.
  • To sdukan#9213 for his valuable help into troubleshooting the Ender 3 V2 differences, electronics (and in general).
  • To all of this awesome community of people and especially the ender_conversion_chat.
  • To Voron design team for all the valuable resources and the solid base.

Disclaimer

This is a very carefuly designed build.. however mistakes could have been made. By deciding to build this conversion, you are responsible for any possible damage done to the printer or even yourself.

ender_sw's People

Contributors

boubounokefalos avatar clintiepoo avatar

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ender_sw's Issues

Heated bed spacers

The spacers in the switchwire conversion CAD are 5.2mm ID 8mm OD 8.3mm long. The spacers in the switchwire BOM are 6 x 6 x 3 stainless steel.

Are the spacers in the CAD the silicone ones?

BOM?

Where is the BOM? I cannot find it anywhere in the files. Thank you.

Voxlab Aquila

Will this conversion work on a Voxlab Aquila? Its very similar to an Ender 3 V2, just a different mainboard (which I am planning on swapping out anyway) and the stock screen is sideways instead of vertical like on the Ender 3 V2.

Request support bracket for bigtreetechs board.

Hi i love your work and actaually working my way through the conversion as we speak. I notice that the board you support skr mini e3. But i have skr 3 board. Was wondrring if you can help me out?

Which Parts to print

I want to do the conversion and watched trough the STL files. Whats the diffrence between the Parts with [a] at beginning an the parts without and which one do i need to print? I want to do the conversion on a Ender 3 Pro.

MGN Rail Alignment Tool

During the build process of my Voron 2.4 i found the rail alignment tool invaluable to get proper alignment on the aluminium extrusions. Would be nice to have that tool for this project too (one that fits on the 4040 extrusion for the y axis to enable correct alignment)

part y_motor_mount_bracket_enderV2

Part appears to be artifact? -
image

In cad, part is inside the rear end of the y-axis 4040 by 10mm.

If part is needed for full range of motion for bed, then hardware should be updated from M5x0.8x16 BHCS to M5x0.8x25 BHCS. However, this will offset the rear grills 10mm and prevent the rear middle grill from mounting as is.

XZ Blocks don't quite fit v-slots, don't sit square, leg underneath extrusion doesn't extend all the way across.

See image from interference analysis, the parts don't quite sit straight. There's a leg that needed extending as well that helps keep the parts square. I've made some fixes. https://github.com/strayr/Ender3_switchwire_fixes/tree/main/XZ-blocks.

I've done a T-slost version as well as I didn't want to cut up my ender 3.

I hope this is helpful, I'm not sure if I should be posting issue here or to triano's verion 2?

2022-02-14 (2)

mounting the enclosure

I can't find anything about mounting the printed parts to the enclosure. Is the tape used here?

Voron Switchwire cr10

Hi everyone, it's a shame that this doesn't exist for CR10.

because I have a cr10 v1 lying around it would have been nice to transform it into voron switchwire

y stop mounting bracket doesnt account for the solder on the switch board

the y stop bracket doesnt account for the solder on the back side of the switch board. the fix would be to put the cutout hole that's on the side that faces the 4040 on the side that faces the board instead.. I mean the board fits perfectly on the other side, like that cutout was meant to accomodate the back side of the board, but the screw countersinks that are used to mount the bracket to the 4040 are on the other side of the cutout. or just make that cutout go all the way through, the part doesnt go through a lot of stress.

Can’t mount grills or 4040 extenders on Ender 3 v2

I just went to install the front grill on my Ender 3 v2 and realized that mine does not have tapped holes for the two outer 4040 extrusions, so I can’t mount the front and rear grills as designed.

I was thinking about modifying the front 4040 extenders so that the front grill bolts to them directly, and then the extenders could slot into the V-slot grooves, but I’m concerned that it won’t be strong enough with the weight of the enclosure and display.

Is it possible to buy new extrusions with the holes already drilled in the right places for mounting the Z profiles and the 4040 that goes between these two? Tapping the holes myself is not something I’m equipped for.

Any guidance on how I should proceed would be appreciated.

Question upper idler.

Just curious as to why the upper idler was changed, this would now require 2 m5x40 rather than 1. If this affects the BOM can you please update.

Missing M5x10 SHCS screw from Wiki

Hi! I've realised that M5x10 SHCS is a non-Voron BOM spec screw but its missing from the wiki, I had to order some midway building as i couldn't assemble my Y idler and motor, hope you can help add in the wiki for others!

Rev. 2

Hello,
Is there a way to reach you via Discord or something like that? I have a few ideas for Rev. 2.

Missing foot screws from CAD and BOM

Hi, thanks so much for your awesome work on this!

I'm opening this issue because when searching through the .f3d file I can't seem to find any screws attaching the feet to the frame. I assume since the extensions are 20mm tall that we probably want something like M5x25 or 30mm but I couldn't tell. Do you have a particular screw spec'd for this part?

About to order my screws for the build and want to be sure I grab em all :)

BOM

Love the look especially with the enclosure was looking into doing the conversion on my new Ender3Pro, but don't see any BOM for what can be reused vs what i'm going to have to order do you have one for the project? No XLSX or anything, just sorta got to look at the cad?

Especially for the enclosure parts

Add DXF for deck panels

It would be nice if you could create a DXF file for the deck panels (preferably in the same two piece configuration as the stock SW) so they could be laser cut?

Z Probe options and Klicky Probe

Hi, I dont have access to genuine Omron Probe. I was look to use a clicky probe like quickdraw or Klicky probe. Do you have any working option for clicky probe? or can it be desinged around this conversion?

Errors in the Wiki docs

Some of the links in the Wiki Docs are incorrect. They have STLS in the path when it should be STL as an STLS folder doesn't exists in this repository,

Ender 3 (not Pro)

Does this conversion work for my original Ender 3? Is there plans to build this from scratch?

DXF bottom panel appear out of date

Viewing the dxf panel bottom_panel.dxf it appears out of date with the current CAD drawing. It only shows 1 screw hole when the design calls for more. I haven't checked the exact dimensions for the other panels but are they up to date with the current design? I want to send them off to Sendcutsend but ran in to this issue.

Thanks! Appreciate all the work on this.

BOM Difference: MGN12 Rails

The BOM page in the wiki should note that a 5th MGN12 rail is needed for this conversion, since the official BOM for the Switchwire only requires 4.

I'd submit a pull request for it.... but you know, can't do PRs on the wiki repo. Thanks GitHub.

X endstop removed from the CAD.

Yours :
Capture d’écran 2024-01-07 à 19 39 22

Official CAD from VoronDesign :
Capture d’écran 2024-01-07 à 19 41 24

small thing many thanks for the great CAD and STL's it's a delight so far!

i was just scratching my head figuring out where that endstop was...

Ender 3 V2 - X extrusion is wrong size ..

Seems like the model calls for a 310mm X gantry extrusion .. seems like my Ender 3 v2 uses a 350mm one there.

I'm reluctant to cut it (since once its done there is no going back there ;) .. really gotta get all my parts assembled and ready before I do this next step .. was hoping I was going to be able to be a bit gradual, but this one part seems to require a permanent modification.
It seems like the whole design depends on that extrusion being a but shorter than its wide so it seems like its kind of key to note that for folks.

The instructions should include something about potentially needing to do this :)

Perhaps in the wiki around the frame section.

update printer.cfg

Please correct usage of default parameter values in cancel_print and pause
like this:
#default_parameter_X: 220
#default_parameter_Y: 220
#default_parameter_Z: 10
gcode:
{% set X = params.X|default(220) %}
{% set Y = params.X|default(220) %}
{% set Z = params.X|default(10) %}

Ender 3 Compatibility

Is this compatible with the original Ender 3? I think the big issue will be the 40x40 extrusion on the Y, right?

Is there a BOM for this conversion ?

I would really like to make the conversion, but without a conversion, it feels kind of weird.
At first, i thought i would buy the entire sw bom, without the extrusions, psu, mainboard, hotend and rpi, but I'm assuming some of the screws can be conserved, and some stuff need to be adapted to the extrusion size of the ender 3 pro. So is there a complete BOM for this ?

skr bracket leaves no room for usb

the skr bracket, mounted as the cad drawing depicts, leaves the USB port too close to the right main 4040 bracket. I do like where its mounted, and looking for a 90 degree usb cable.

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